Thursday, December 17, 2015

Crush of the week: Naomi Campbell

Do you remember singing into a hairbrush as a kid? Or giving an acceptance speech to the mirror? For me, it was walking down an imaginary catwalk, face arranged in a fashion grimace. Blame Naomi Campbell. She was electrifying. So beautiful it made my chest ache.


I can’t remember the first time I saw Campbell, now 45. It must have been in the late 1980s, because she was already familiar enough for me to squeal excitedly when I saw her in George Michael’s music video for Freedom! ’90.

You know what she looks like but let’s recap: a face almost offensive in its symmetrical beauty: eyes that transmit a cool unknowability, a smile as wide as the Caribbean, cheekbones on which to sharpen knives, that cute as a button nose. And her limbs! She moves them like jazz musicians play: strong, sure, wildly experimental. It’s bewitching to watch. So much so that there are YouTube compilations of her catwalk strut. Listen, how many models’ walks have made it into the lyrics of a Beyoncé song? I rest my case.

Sure, there have been many downs. That Top Of The Pops appearance wasn’t great. Neither was appearing at the Hague war crimes tribunal over allegations that she received a gift of blood diamonds. And let’s not forget the phone-throwing. She’s battled cocaine addiction, taken a stand against the racism and lack of diversity in her industry, and now operates as a sort of fashion godmother to other models of colour. And, as she launches a new lingerie line, she still looks amazing. She is timeless. She is magic. She still makes my chest hurt.

Friday, November 20, 2015

How I get ready: Erin O’Connor

I used to schedule about two hours to get ready, but these days I’ve got it down to 20 minutes – and that includes a shower. My life is a lot fuller now that I’ve had a child, so time to get ready is a forgotten luxury. I’m doing a lot of slick hairdos at the moment, which is no accident: it’s just easier.

I can do my makeup in the back of a car. Lips and eyebrows are most important. I use mascara to fix the roots in my hair, to brush up my eyebrows, and the residual goes on my eyelashes – I can do that in about three minutes. I’m very keen on a red lip: it’s the exclamation mark to any outfit and signifies that you’ve made an effort. My favourite colour of all time is Lady Danger by Mac – it’s really transformative.

I use what I’ve learned on shoots to dress well. I know what doesn’t suit me. Hot pants, say: I wouldn’t wear them and they wouldn’t wear me. I’m so elongated, I can easily look out of proportion – I’m 6ft 4in in heels. When you’re tall, you know when you walk into a room that people will look at you, so you may as well give them a show. I mean that in the humblest terms, being inherently shy.

When I arrive at a party, I have my favourite songs playing in my head, like an audible security blanket. Lady Gaga, Beyoncé or Whitney, for example: lively girl power tunes. I’m a very enthusiastic mover on the dance floor. I can do endless squats; even in heels I can go all the way down and wriggle back up again. I can always tell the next day, though, when I wake up and want to know who has stolen my kneecaps.

I wear a lot of monochromatic and sharp suits at work, but since having Albert, I’ve softened. He really appreciates texture and sparkles. If he wants to touch it, bite it or pull it, I feel the outfit is a success.

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Model who criticised agency: I spoke out about body shape to protect girls

The model who used an open letter to criticise her former agency for allegedly sacking her because she was “too big” has said she spoke out so that youngsters were aware of the pressures in the industry to maintain unrealistic body shapes.

“I was getting messages on Instagram from young girls saying: ‘I want to be a model, how can I be a model? Can you give me any tips?’” Charli Howard told World Have Your Say on the BBC World Service. “And I just thought, why? Why do you want this for your life when you could be an astronaut?”

Howard’s story has once again thrust the issue of ultra-thin models into the spotlight, less than a month after MPs said they would investigate whether very thin models should be banned from British catwalks.

Caroline Nokes, who heads the all party parliamentary group on body image, will lead the inquiry into whether the fashion industry is promoting unhealthy standards of beauty. It begins in November.

She said: “This is an issue that I have been doing a bit of work on over a quite long period of time and the experience that Charli outlines resonates with a lot of the other stories that models, former models and the parents of models have come to me with over the past few months.

“One of the messages that’s coming through loud and clear is that models are being put under enormous pressure to conform to a size and shape which is unrealistic and unsustainable. The figure of a girl at 14 or 15 will be different by the time she is 22. Mostly they come into the industry young and then they find it very difficult to retain the teenager figure when they become women.”

Nokes said the industry is in a vicious circle, where agencies brought in young women to satisfy the designers, and designers made clothes “to fit the frame of a teenage boy” because those were the kinds of models that were available to them. “These are not clothes for women with busts and hips,” she added.

Howard made headlines around the world after posting on Facebook: “Here’s a big FUCK YOU to my (now ex) model agency, for saying that at 5’8” tall and a UK size 6-8 (naturally), I’m ‘too big’ and ‘out of shape’ to work in the fashion industry.

“I will no longer allow you to dictate to me what’s wrong with my looks and what I need to change in order to be ‘beautiful’ (like losing one fucking inch off my hips), in the hope it might force you to find me work.”

She added: “In case you hadn’t realised, I am a woman. I am human. I cannot miraculously shave my hip bones down, just to fit into a sample size piece of clothing or to meet ‘agency standards’. I have fought nature for a long time, because you’ve deemed my body shape too ‘curvaceous’, but I have recently began to love my shape. I don’t have big boobs, but my bum is OK plus, a large majority of my clients are OK with this.”

As well as the many positive responses to Howard’s message, there was a post from Annette-Marie Kjean, head of women at Wilhelmina London, an agency which has represented Howard, who wrote: “You have chosen a very public forum to air your feelings.

“In fairness you should be obliged to tell the whole truth of our experience representing you as a model. You are quick to fat shame the women in the office yet you claim that this is the precise reason why you feel hurt.

“Perhaps now is a good time to reflect upon the facts of how and why we truly decided to end our management relationship with you ... Remember that you left us once for another agency and then came back a second time asking to be with us again and we welcomed you back. You left that part out.”

Howard has not responded to the KJean’s post.

On Friday afternoon, Howard told the BBC she felt it was the agencies that had the power to influence the kinds of women who were hired as models, accusing her former agency, which was not named, of refusing to pass on requests from clients to work with her.

“In a nutshell, I was getting told that a client had complained that I was out of shape,” she said. “But for three months prior to that I had not worked. I had been getting emails from people saying I have tried to contact your agency, we tried to book you and they hadn’t got the agency’s approval. They [the agency] hadn’t allowed me to work or got me any work.”

Caryn Franklin, the fashion commentator and former co-editor of i-D, said she was excited by what she saw as a growing backlash against stick-thin models that came not just from outside the industry, but also now from within.

She said: “Models do talk among themselves and they do say that model agencies do tell them to lose weight, and I think they have finally got to the stage where they have had enough. Fashion has no ethics, we certainly don’t have any ethics around the promotion of images that can influence body image anxiety.”

The Guardian contacted the agency which represented Howard, but it did not wish to comment. The Association of Model Agents, which represents the UK modelling industry, said that agency was not a member and so it could not comment on the case.

However, a spokeswoman said: “In order to be a successful model a girl/boy must be physically fit, in good health and in a happy and positive state of mind. It is not in an agent’s interest to give advice which might compromise this.”

Sunday, September 27, 2015

The Surprising Trick to No-Makeup Makeup: A Beauty Dispatch from Milan

Milan Fashion Week’s biggest beauty statement has been more of an understatement—turning up on the Gucci runway in the form of perfect skin, a whisper of blush, and a slick of lip balm, and on the city’s street style stars, who balance bold prints with a bare face. The truth, of course, is that a supernatural complexion requires a fair amount of makeup—albeit stealthily hidden—and this season, mastering the no-makeup look of the moment may come down to one surprising backstage trick.
At Prada last night, Pat McGrath used a light foundation to even out the skin, then wiped it away again along the cheeks so only the most transparent hint of coverage remained. The technique turned up this morning again backstage at the Marco de Vincenzo show, where the idea was “making the skin as beautiful as possible with as little foundation as possible,” explained makeup artist Terry Barber of the fresh-faced runway look. After putting on the sheerest micro-layer of MAC Face and Body Foundation possible to even out the skin, he went back and pressed away any excess from the apples with a sponge. “There’s something nice that happens when the light hits that ruddy, pinkish area where you flush—you don’t want to cover that up,” he said of the sleight of hand, which can be repeated anywhere your foundation risks looking like a mask or along freckles on the bridge of the nose. “It’s about using foundation only where you need it and scaling back where you don’t.”

Once you’ve mastered the perfectly customized amount of coverage, the rest is easy, said Barber. He uses a peach-toned shade of MAC Studio Fix concealer, which neutralizes bluish undertones, “only on the dark area under the eye at the inner corners,” making it sheerer as it approaches the lashes and, again, using his fingers to tap away any excess. “It should be almost translucent,” he said. “If you can see the concealer, it’s too much.”  He finished by covering up any remaining blemishes on the face with a different yellow-toned concealer, setting the brows with a bit of gel, and slicking balm on the lips. “If you can learn to do that in five minutes,” he said firmly, “you’re set.”

Thursday, September 10, 2015

The Models Redefining American Beauty Today

In the modeling industry, America has always had its share of superstars—Jerry Hall, Cindy Crawford, and Karlie Kloss, anyone?—but in recent history, it’s begun to feel like the influx of international beauties has overwhelmed the presence of homegrown talent. But just like that, a new generation of “Born in the U.S.A.” beauties has begun to dominate the industry. Effortlessly cool best friends Lexi Boling and Binx Walton have led the charge, followed by the rise of Instagirls like Kendall Jenner, Hailey Baldwin, and Gigi Hadid; Texan Vanessa Moody was among the season’s top walkers; Californian newcomer Alice Metza is already a Prada regular; and Midwesterner Grace Hartzel emerged as the campaign star to beat, starring in ads for Calvin Klein, Tod’s, Valentino, and Hugo Boss.
According to Jeff and Mary Clarke of Mother Model Management—the scouts who first discovered both Kloss and Hartzel—the resurgence of the American model all comes back to the charisma of the girls themselves. “There will always be something undeniable about a fresh American beauty,” says Mary. “They are inspiring to young teenage girls in middle America, to women who find them more relatable, and to the casting directors and designers who find them a refreshing image to build on.” Given the renewed focus on models as celebrities, it makes sense that the American girls who resonate are all blessed in the personality department. As the definition of all-American expands, the models selected are beginning to reflect the nation’s variety, as well. “It is an exciting time in the fashion world,” says Mary. “We are happy to see the term American beauty embrace more cultural and ethnic diversity.” Get to know eleven of the models representing the new era of what it means to be all-American.

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Maggie Rising! The ’90s Supermodel Returns to Modeling as a Mother

In the late nineties, Maggie Rizer was a recurring presence in the pages of Vogue. With her arresting good looks and sunny disposition, Rizer stood out as a new kind of all-American model: edgy enough to appeal to photographers like Steven Meisel and Craig McDean, but sweet enough to front campaigns for wholesome standards like Clinique, which made her the face of its ubiquitous, decade-defining fragrance Happy. For close to a decade, Rizer was a fashion fixture—until she stepped away from the industry to focus on herself and her family. In the years since, Rizer has settled down with businessman Alex Mehran, become a mother three times over, and recently returned to modeling. With back-to-back appearances in the August and September issues of Vogue, it’s clear that Rizer is once again at the top of her game. We caught up with the supermodel to talk motherhood as a model, and how she’s adjusting to the new social media–heavy industry.
Maggie Rizer
You wrote a wonderful piece last September about what it was like to come back to modeling after a decade. How has it felt to return to the pages of Vogue in the September issue?

Modeling and fashion are some of the things that have made me happiest in the world. I grew up in fashion, and while everyone else my age was having the college experience, I was learning about why Alexander McQueen was so amazing and learning about what inspires Karl Lagerfeld. It’s hard to relate to, but it’s my reality and I’ve loved it. Today as a mom of three, returning to Vogue is awesome and makes me incredibly happy. The only difference between today and the beginning of my career is I have a lot more going for me than just being a fashion model. It doesn’t mean I’m not incredibly lucky and fortunate to be a model, it just means I’m even that much more fortunate to be blessed as a mom—a job I could never compare to another.

How has being a mother impacted your career?

People love to say that becoming a mom won’t change your life, but, really, it changes you in every way imaginable, and that includes your fashion sense—in a major way. Absolutely everything I wear (within a 50-degree radius of my children) is pooped or puked on, and I’m totally okay with that. Today my fashion at home is casual (as cool as I can be, since I get dressed basically in my sleep), and when I go out, I get a chance to dress in fabrics other than Sunbrella. Modeling is more limited for me these days because my number one priority is my family, but I am very fortunate to be able to still do it once in a while.

What is it like for you seeing trends from the nineties/aughts showing up again on the runways?

Nineties fashion is the best for me, so to see it back is amazing! There is nothing better than big combat boots, grunge, dirty cool hair, and a good rock vibe. You don’t have to push this trend on me.

How do you find the current era’s focus on social media and self-promotion—has it been an adjustment dealing with that side of the business?

Social media and reality TV have wound their way into fashion in a way I assumed was unimaginable. It’s fascinating that it’s been so successful, and it’s amazing that it has given girls such strong reins on their careers. Social media is giving power back to models, making them that much more valuable and popular, as it should be! Self-promotion was initially a little hard for me to understand, but I now understand the importance of it, not only to models but also to brands and magazines. I think it’s quite amazing that models now have this amazing extra power. Especially after so many actresses taking over a big percentage of editorials, ads, and covers—I think it’s phenomenal that models have this extra bit of control over their careers.

After two decades, what keeps you excited about the job?


I love fashion. I truly enjoy watching designers come back season after season with fresh inspiration. I love watching the world inspire fashion and love seeing it play out in the streets. It’s amazing to me to watch fashion go from a sketch to the runway to the sidewalk. I love that everyone can be in fashion. You can spend $10,000 or $10 and be in fashion. In all of the transformations it makes, fashion is incredible.

This season we’ve seen an influx of incredible redheads on the runway. As one of the originals, how do you feel about that?

Not that I’m biased, but redheads are and always have been a special beauty like no other in fashion. Natalie [Westling], Rianne [Van Rompaey], and Madison [Stubbington] are not only stunning redheads but are all genuine and sweet with great personalities. It’s a true honor to work with these girls [in the September issue]. The more redheads, the better!

What can we expect from you as you enter into this new phase of your career?

My number one focus is my family, which means lots of diaper changes, swim lessons, and soccer games in my future! There’s nothing I’d rather be doing than that. I am very humbled to be in this amazing position I am in, to be able to choose when to work and to have such incredible jobs to choose from. It’s a unique position that I don’t take for granted. I would also love to open a shop near our home at some point. It would feature some of my favorite designers and items—like Matthew Williamson, Yohji [Yamamoto], Awaveawake, Rick Owens, Dean Harris, Diptyque candles, Assouline books, special finds from traveling, et cetera. Saying all that, the diaper changes are the only thing I’m 100 percent certain about.

Monday, July 20, 2015

Vanessa Beecroft’s Latest Fashion Foray Combines Angelic Models With Valentino Couture

Vogue Ukraine's Art Issue
Throughout her oeuvre, artist Vanessa Beecroft has explored society’s view of the female form in her controversial and immersive performance art. On occasion, she focuses her work on fashion, joining forces with designers—most notably Kanye West for his Fall 2015 presentation with Adidas Originals—and publications for one-of-a-kind moments. Her latest fashion project is an expansive portfolio for Vogue Ukraine’s second annual Art Issue. Working hand in hand with fashion editor and project curator Olga Yanul, Beecroft merged marble, semi-nude models, and Valentino Couture into one sumptuous fashion story. Speaking to Style.com about the project, Beecroft and Yanul share how this unique portfolio came to be.

How did this collaboration come about?

OLGA YANUL: Once a year Vogue Ukraine does its special Art Issue. The one we made with Vanessa is the second one we have done so far—the first one we did was in collaboration with Marina Abramovic. We’re interested in showcasing the most prominent artists in the world and their correspondence with fashion. It’s a great opportunity to show our readers the best creative minds shaping the modern art world. The fashion part makes the art objects a little bit more narrative,  understandable, and easier to accept. Moreover, it helps to create new meanings. I guess that’s one of the most exciting things in fashion.

Why did you choose to highlight the marble works? 

VANESSA BEECROFT: It began in 2010 when I realized my first marble sculpture, a head in alabaster, in Carrara, Italy. The marble sculptures progressively grew into a sculpture group…[made of] marble of many colors and origin: pink from Portugal, black from Belgium, blue from Macaubas, pink from Francia, green from the Alps, etc. The project became very complicated due to my distance from Carrara, the place where the sculptures are made, since others carve the stone for me. It became an agony. This year, when the Venice Biennale invited me to participate in the Italian Pavilion, giving me a cubical space, I decided to throw in all the marble sculptures I have worked on during the past years to create a marble performance made of fragments. This was the beginning of the creation of this room.

What was the feeling you wanted to convey with these images?

OY: We were interested in Vanessa’s very intimate touch on female beauty and existence. In the way, alive and preserved in stone, they communicate with and fulfill each other.

VB: These images are a consolidation of real women present in my work and their equivalent in marble. They are all present in one room, one evoking the other. The live ones informing the marble ones, and vice versa. I wanted to convey a sense of eternity of life and death co-existing.

How did you go about choosing the clothing that would be used in the images?

VB: I like Valentino Couture; I consider it like the marble in the sense of its purity. I chose the pieces based on minimalism, and sometimes the color or texture that was an equivalent to me of the marble’s veins and texture.

OY: The idea Vanessa was aiming to express was the main starting point. The girls had to look like her marble statues, but still alive, ephemeral, and divine. Valentino dresses—simple, sophisticated, transparent, and monochrome—were a perfect way to embody this idea. Plus, Vanessa introduced us to a very interesting designer from Rome, Cristina Bomba. She made some special pieces: veils, masks, and transparent dresses. Vanessa often works with naked bodies, but as soon as we started to discuss the project, it was clear we needed a fashion message.

How is doing a project for fashion different from a piece you would do for your personal work?

VB: In this case, for example, it required the use of wardrobe, something I do not need in my work to such an extent. Fashion has specifics, art doesn’t. Art is free from constrictions with the market in its making, fashion is not.

What were you looking for when it came time to select the models?

VB: Diaphanous, androgynous women who looked like saints or like Magdalenas.

Monday, July 6, 2015

Glad to be grey? What life is like for older male models

Nico, 36
Nico D’Ambrosio. Photograph: ©Louise Hawkins
The Grey Model Agency isn’t explicitly an agency for grey models but if you are, it helps. It was launched last week by Rebecca Valentine, a former photographic agent, with a view to scouting, casting and signing models aged 35 upwards. Valentine came to the idea after realising a distinct “lack of supply” of older models alongside a shift of demographic in the beauty industry. “In the modelling world, once you hit 24 you’re can be considered past it,” she says. “But the truth is, people want to see older models, in campaigns especially. For a middle-aged woman, looking at an image of a woman half her age wearing the dress she wants isn’t going to inspire her, is it?”

The idea, says Valentine, is to focus on casting older models in younger roles; grey-haired women in tracksuits, that sort of thing. Basic retouching is considered a necessity in photography, so that will happen, but extensive use of Photoshop won’t (“otherwise, what’s the point of casting an older model?”). A handful of the people on the agency’s books are former models, answering that difficult question about what happens when models hit their mid-20s, but the rest are “elegant and eccentric” civilians. Dancers with dodgy hips. Former PRs. Masseuses.

In the last few years, fashion has cottoned on to the grey pound by fostering more diversity in fashion campaigns. A hatful of older campaign stars including Joan Didion, Cher and Joni Mitchell are valiantly subverting media perceptions of how we see age. Now, older models front Dove campaigns. If they’re Cher, they land the cover of Love magazine, and if they’re Veruschka, they walk on Giles Deacon’s catwalk. It figures that the modelling world is following suit; older shoppers are no longer placed at the weak end of the market, so it makes sense to ship in models who speak directly to the buyer, women who celebrate age.

But what of the men? This week, George Clooney revealed that he thinks men age better if they accept it gracefully rather than fight it; if they welcome the wrinkles as they roll in. But while Hollywood has long been accepting of older men (not so much the women) it hasn’t always been the case in fashion. Here, three “older” male models explain what it’s like modelling when you’re considered “past it” and the terror of seeing a grey beard in the mirror.

“Mid-30s are tricky for a man. I don’t know if I look my age. What does a 35-year-old look like? But obviously, while we’re still young, we fall into society’s perception of what is old now. I think that 40 is the new 30 but at my age, you’re no longer seen as a young man, even if you feel like one. I still do, but according to the mainstream, I am too old to model. But the thing is: say, you’re modelling a fashion brand, the guys my age are the ones with the money so how are they meant to identify with a model who is a teenager and could be a boy or a girl, looks-wise? We, the mid-30s, are where it’s at.

“I never really thought about modelling as a full-on career; my background is more music and art, that sort of thing. And, of course, I look in the mirror and think: ‘Oh God, I’m going grey’, but to be honest, I’ve had silver streaks since I was a teenager so I’ve sort of found peace with it. I think it’s widely known that men age better than women but I think [the perception] of ageing is changing. And I think using older models will help.

“I have a beard but I didn’t consciously grow it for modelling, to look the part. I spent many years on the road and I just got lazy and didn’t cut it. It comes and goes. I think it’s my lifestyle that makes me ‘seem’ younger than I am, it hasn’t been conventional or mainstream and that probably makes a difference. But I still find it weird when I get attention from younger girls.”

                                            Matthew Morris, 45
Matthew Morris. Photograph: ©Gemma Reynolds
“I’m a performer and a dancer, among other things, but yes, I suppose modelling is something I do. It started when I was scouted in Brighton by an independent label. I hadn’t thought about it before, I was more focused on my other jobs, but I enjoyed it so I thought I’d apply to the agency. To be honest, now I’m 45, it feels like the right time.

“I recently landed the Esprit AW campaign. I’m the oldest model in the group, but it’s the first time I’ve been able to do more than whisper ‘I’m a model’. I sort of can’t believe it, really. I suppose that modelling at 45 defies convention but that’s not just the case for this industry. I mean, at 45, I am ‘too old’ to be a dancer. For example, it takes longer to repair if you get injured. But that said, it does feel very rewarding to be considered a model at this age and to get that campaign.

“I don’t think about ageing on a day-to-day basis. I mean, sure, sometimes I look in the mirror and think: ‘Look at my beard, look how grey it is’, or think the hair on top is thinning. But ultimately you have to feel your age, you know, to let it bother you. I don’t think about it. I suppose it’s considered easier to age if you’re a man, because people use words like ‘distinguished’ when they talk about older men. But my aim is to work at an agency which makes it OK to be older, regardless of gender. I hope that what I do empowers men and women my age.”

                                            Antony Fitzgerald, 50
Antony Fitzgerald. Photograph: ©Tom Watkins
“I think that society does view age in a different way now. Twenty years ago, you wouldn’t see tattoos or albino models, or even gappy teeth, so society must have changed its attitude towards beauty. The idea of what is good looking is very different, and I hope to help change perceptions. I don’t mean I think I’m good looking at all, and I find the fact that I have been signed surprising, but I don’t see myself as the classic black model, if that makes sense. Or at least what’s considered classic. I am skinny, black and old; I look like ‘a father’. I think black male models are stereotyped as being buff or ripped, not tall men who like to dance, like me.

“I’ve done all sorts, some PR and marketing, but I’ve always been interested in fashion, I just didn’t think that I’d fit in. I’m going for a more elegant look, you know, incorporating dancing into my shoots. People would probably assume I’m at home sipping Ovaltine in front of Corrie. But I still go to clubs and I still see the same people there and we’re all still dancing, which must say something about society, perceptions and the reality of what it’s like to get older.”

Monday, June 15, 2015

Joséphine de La Baume: meet Hollywood's new French dream girl

French women. Wow. One would prefer to believe it’s all a cliche: the black eyeliner, the Gitanes purr, the wind-you-round-their-chipped-Chanel-nail-varnished-little-finger pout. Except here I am, perched at one end of a sofa in a studio in the 11th arrondissement of Paris with Joséphine de La Baume curled up at the other end, a one-woman forcefield of feline, Gallic charm. The slow smile, the sleepy, half-closed eyes, the hand absent-mindedly raking hair off her face. She has an easy sensuality that – seemingly without trying – casts the bronzed, hard-bodied, Americanised version of hotness into the shade.
But you know what? It’s actually a total drag, being young Hollywood’s go-to French Dream Girl. “I always get the girl who is French and liberated and stylised. I dream of playing a girl who is a tomboy, tough, in the mud; but no. Never.” De La Baume pouts, then laughs. “I’m lucky if someone offers me a part where I don’t have to smoke and drink wine in every scene.” It’s a hard life, right? But then, as de La Baume adds, “On the other hand, I do get to be grumpy and feisty and a pain in the ass, because that’s very French.”
De La Baume has strawberry-blond hair, long and vaguely unkempt, messily centre-parted in the Saint-Germain art student style. Her hazel eyes are flecked with so much gold, they look almost amber. She has incredible cheekbones and disarmingly normal teeth (Vanessa Paradis is the same). On a cool spring day, she wears a shaggy, 70s-style purple coat over a well-worn Alexander McQueen sweater with buttons missing at the cuffs, and faded J Brand jeans. On her hands there are a cluster of rings with motifs of lips or snakes. “It’s fun to wear something womanly and glamorous to a premiere, and to play the game,” she says. “But in real life I am quite tomboyish: I wear a lot of shirts, T-shirts, always boots.” Like every good Parisienne of this decade, her favourite label is Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent.
    De La Baume has more about her than the picture captions on the social pages and men’s magazines would have you believe
In Listen Up Philip, the new film by 31-year-old Brooklyn film-making wonderkid Alex Ross Perry, de La Baume joins a heavyweight cast that includes Jason Schwartzman, Elisabeth Moss and Jonathan Pryce. It’s an angst-ridden New York comedy, very much in the Woody Allen tradition, down to the West Village bicycle rides set to jazz saxophone and self-obsessed men having verbose tantrums in paperback-lined apartments. De La Baume plays the gorgeous bluestocking, Yvette. “It’s a French-girl part, of course. He [Schwartzman] even says in the movie, ‘I always wanted a French girlfriend.’ But I liked that she was more than just the fantasy of a French woman. She’s romantic, but she’s also an achiever.”
As is de La Baume, when you scratch the surface. You know how one inevitably judges people, to a certain extent, by the people they are married to? Four years ago, de La Baume, now 30, married the musician and DJ Mark Ronson; before that, she starred in advertising campaigns for lingerie brand Agent Provocateur. So far, so predictably rock-star-marries-model. Well, put it like this: after spending a little time with de La Baume, my opinion of Ronson has risen noticeably. She’s got more about her than the picture captions on the social pages and men’s magazines would have you believe. (Mea culpa, for reading them.) First there is an acting career that began with French period drama The Princess Of Montpensier in 2010, and has included roles in One Day and Johnny English Reborn; then de La Baume makes up half, with her brother Alexandre, of the band Singtank, whose debut album gained a four-star review in this newspaper in 2012 (“a sherbert lemon of a debut album, sweet and tart in all the right places and measures”).
The trailer for de La Baume’s new film, Listen Up Philip.
Back, briefly, to those social pages. Of all the articles I read about de La Baume before meeting her, one particular headline stuck in my head for its pure silliness: “Socialite Hurt During Sail”, as reported in NY Post’s Page Six gossip column in January 2012. The piece referred to a minor back complaint suffered by Ronson’s mother, Ann Dexter-Jones, during a Mexican sailing holiday in the company of her son and daughter-in-law, and Joséphine’s parents, named in the item as “Baron and Baronne de La Baume”. Vanity Fair, meanwhile, included de La Baume and her “freight-inspection fortune” in a portfolio on heirs and heiresses. So, is she very, very posh? “Baron doesn’t mean anything in France. This is a republic. A title doesn’t mean anything here, and it hasn’t for years and years.” Her father is an ex-investment banker who owns a theatre, while her mother runs a charity. “It’s an old French family, but it’s not aristocratic. It’s a family of lawyers, really, nothing special. My parents are more intellectuals than anything, and they are interested in culture and ideas. They are very low-key people, not extravagant. They are in their 70s now, but they both still work. They spend their time going to the theatre, that sort of thing.”
One member of her family about whom de La Baume is happy to riff is her grandmother. It is a story so femme fatale, so fabulously mythic and cinematic, that it must be at least partly embellished, but it bears repeating. As de La Baume tells it, Suzanne Salmanowicz was a beautiful teenage bride when her husband was called up to fight at the beginning of the second world war. Pining for him, she joined the resistance, travelled to Africa in pursuit of him, and ended up on an army boat, which was torpedoed. “After two days swimming together, her husband sank in front of her, but she kept swimming. The next day, she got bitten by a shark. But – this is the funny part of the story – she was, how do you say, coquette? She liked to look nice, and she had had the coat lined and tailored to make it a better shape. And she always said that that had saved her ass, because the shark mostly bit her coat.” (A morality tale in defence of perfectly fitting clothes: so French.)
Stripe shirt, £465, by JW Anderson, from stylebop.com. Blazer, from a selection, 31philliplim.com. Styling: Melanie Wilkinson. Photographer’s assistant: Linda Giezendanner. Hair: Nao Kawakami at Saint Luke. Makeup: Anthony Preel at Airport Agency. Photograph: Wendelin Spiess for the Guardian
Eventually saved by an English boat, Suzanne then fell in love with her commanding general, who was “married and a womaniser. And she was supposed to go on a spy mission to jump out of a plane next to a concentration camp, but right before, she found out she was pregnant – that was with my mum – so she didn’t go. Everyone on that mission was killed. So, my mum saved her life, in a way.” De La Baume wants to make a movie about her grandmother’s life, one day. I get the impression casting the main role will be relatively straightforward.
Joséphine is the third of her mother’s four children. “‘The first one from the second bed’ is what my mum says. Very French. So my parents were quite old when they had me. Now I can see that I was lucky. It was actually a very interesting childhood, but at the time I was like, for fuck’s sake, another classical music concert? Can’t you take me to, like, Michael Jackson for once?”
She and her younger brother Alexandre “started playing music as a way just to spend time together. And then I was going to acting school and he was working in movie production. Music was just something we did for fun.” But in London, Joséphine had “met some people in music, and stuff like that”, so they sent some music to producer Nellee Hooper, who ended up producing their first album; their second, Ceremonies, was released last year. Now music is as important to her as acting: “I can’t imagine doing one without the other.” When I ask what projects she is working on, she talks about playing the second album live this summer before getting to any upcoming movie projects (which include an Amanda Sthers film co-starring with Rossy de Palma and Rosanna Arquette).
Modelling, on the other hand, she is keen to distance herself from. “I never considered myself a model. I had started acting and doing music, and then I got hired for fashion jobs, so I always felt like I was being hired as Joséphine. Especially since they would have to resize everything.” (She is 5ft 4in, with splendid curves.) “I could do one day of modelling and live on that money while I made a film. That was what I liked about modelling, really.” And the Agent Provocateur brand, she says, is about more than just knickers. “Through the women they work with – from Kylie Minogue, who is so tiny, to Maggie Gyllenhaal – they celebrate different definitions of beauty. It’s about being comfortable with who you are, and that’s important. Am I a feminist? Of course! It would be ridiculous to be a woman and not to be a feminist. There is absolutely nothing negative about a word that means you care about other women and their rights. For as long as there is inequality in the world, it is really important that every woman is a feminist.”
Joséphine de La Baume

De La Baume’s home with Ronson is in Notting Hill, but she has kept her flat in Paris (“It’s just, like, a basement”), because she is back and forth, most recently filming a French TV series, “a comedy, set in the secret service in the 60s”. Meanwhile, Ronson (who speaks French “a little… he tries”) lives between London and the US. He “helped a bit” on the second Singtank album, but “we didn’t physically work together because he worked from a studio in London and we were in Paris. That’s probably for the best, right?” Their life in London revolves around watching movies – “He is a huge, huge cinephile”, she says approvingly – and taking their dog, a black labrador/border collie cross (“We think, we don’t really know: she’s from the shelter”) for walks in Hyde Park.
Listen Up Philip is, in part, about somebody who leaves, about the impact of emotional unavailability on the people around Jason Schwartzman’s character. “You get to see what happens in the absence of someone, the impact of them not being there,” de La Baume says. As for her and Ronson’s own conflicting schedules, she says, “it just makes it exciting when we do have time at home – I mean, exciting for us, but so not exciting to talk about. We don’t go out, we don’t even go to the pub. All we do is watch films and hang out. I’m learning to cook. Just simple pleasures.” Like I say, so French.

Monday, April 13, 2015

Malaika Firth: ‘It’s a frickin’ roller coaster’

Supermodels seem to pop up overnight. Nobody had heard of Cara Delevingne, then there was a puff of smoke and she was as familiar as a road sign. You were walking along, living your life in happy ignorance of Jourdan Dunn, and suddenly the sidebar of shame was inconceivable without her. What happens between those two points can be mysterious to outsiders. Is there some kind of factory where your common-or-garden catwalk strutters turn into Vogue-covering titans? Are they made, or do they make themselves?
Watching Malaika Firth throw rangey shapes in a studio in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, I wonder whether I am witnessing part of the transition. In the glare of the lights, camera clicking, she is animated by some fierce and unusual energy, obviously the dominant power in the room. The last shot done, she flips back into her own clothes and strolls over. (Her mufti is a black leather jacket, pink hoodie, grey top, black tracksuit bottoms and high-top Adidas with a kind of rainbow flourish around the sole.) Off-set she shrinks to a more human scale and checks her phone. “I’m off to have an exam,” she calls over her shoulder to the platoon of comb- and lipstick-wielding assistants.
Malaika’s career so far suggests that she is at the pointy end of a rocket to superstardom. Her story sometimes makes it sound like nothing could be easier. In 2011, aged 17, she watched The Model Agency, a documentary about the Premier agency, on Channel 4, and thought it looked like the place for her. She had been interested in modelling for a couple of years beforehand. Her mother, Jecinta, rang up Premier’s founder, Carole White, to arrange a meeting. History doesn’t record whether pound signs actually flashed in White’s eyes when she saw Malaika’s unmistakable feline features and mantis limbs, but she signed her on the spot. Jobs for Asos, Burberry and H&M quickly followed, and catwalk work all over the world. In 2013 Malaika became the first black model for nearly 20 years to star in a Prada campaign. The last woman to do that? Naomi Campbell.
Malaika Firth
Malaika photographed wearing clothes and shoes by Miu Miu. Photograph: Michael Schwartz
“It is a frickin’ roller coaster. I wish I had known how much pressure there would be,” Malaika says. “I’d have been able to prepare myself better. From the outside it all looks so easy, but the days can be frickin’ long, and sometimes you see some girls at the end of the shoot thinking, “Oh my gosh I’m tired.’” But I am learning day by day. There are worse things, man, come on!”
Although she has no doubt had to “grow up fast”, in the favourite cliché of those industries where youth is strip-mined to oblivion, Malaika is still only 21 (she celebrated her birthday on 23 March), and you can tell. Her speech is enthusiastic almost to the point of naivety; ‘frickin’ her preferred curse-swerve. Most articles about her mention her race high up, partly because it is impossible to allow her hypnotic complexion to pass unremarked.
“People are allowed to talk about my race,” she says. “I like it. I guess I see myself as a kind of junior ambassador – I should pat myself on the head for that,” she jokes. “After that Prada campaign when I was being compared to Naomi Campbell I was so happy. She’s a legend. And if things aren’t changing in fashion, they need to.” The Prada campaign was shot by Steven Meisel, the reclusive photographer who also shot Vogue Italia’s controversial “All Black” special in July 2008. “Obviously, I feel that fashion is totally racist,” he has said. “The one thing that taking pictures allows you to do is occasionally make a larger statement.”
Malaika herself things thinks things are changing, albeit slowly. “I see a lot of new black girls on the runway. When I began there was just Jourdan Dunn, Joan Smalls, but now there are more girls coming up. There should still be more diversity – it’s like, don’t just try, actually frickin’ do it. We all have the same blood.”
We don’t all have the same faces, however, a fact one becomes cruelly aware of in her company. Malaika’s genetic good fortune came courtesy of her father, Eric, of British, Seychellois and Ugandan descent, and her half-Kenyan, half-Swiss mother, Jecinta. Malaika was born in Kenya and lived there until she was seven, when the family moved to Barking, east London. Eric worked as a French polisher at the Four Seasons hotel. When Malaika talks about her family you get a glimpse of her ambition, but also of a rootedness that might save her from her industry’s worst excesses.
“I don’t come from a posh or high-class background. We lived in flats in the ghetto, our version of the Bronx,” she says, mindful of her American context. “There was some knife crime, some racism. But I was kind of blind to that stuff. I’ve always been friends with white people, black people, whoever. We weren’t poor, but there wasn’t a lot of money. I shared a room with my sister and my auntie. I struggled getting by in school, with £2 for my lunch. When the EMA (Education Maintenance Allowance) came out I was so excited – £20 a month! I appreciate everything that has happened. For me to have this career is life-changing for my family.”
Malaika Firth
Navy gingham dress and trenchcoat both by Bottega Veneta; boots by Jimmy Choo; and socks by Falke. Photograph: Michael Schwartz
This, it turns out, is no mere figure of speech. With the spoils of her work so far Malaika has bought a flat in Lower Manhattan, and last year gave Eric the money to build a house for the family in Kenya. “His face just lit up when I told him what I was doing. I paid for the materials and the labour and he designed it himself. The whole family live near to each other. It’s beautiful.
“It felt good because at first he was against me modelling. He’s quite protective and I think he was worried I would end up becoming a prostitute or on drugs. It is so easy for girls to end up like that. But now I’m killing it and he’s just like, ‘Look after yourself.’ He’s so proud of me. But I had to give something back, man; they raised me right.” Although she drinks, and seems to enjoy New York’s clubbing scene, she doesn’t do drugs or smoke, perhaps helped by her Baptist faith. “The world is getting worse and worse and I think the only thing that could keep us together is God. I’m not perfect, but I want to grow in my faith.”
Home is Kenya or New York – maybe Los Angeles, one day. “Everywhere’s home. I’m like a gypsy!” she says. She has not been back to Barking since she “blew up” – the family has all moved to Kenya, so there are no ties to east London left. “I only had one or two friends in sixth form anyway. I was bullied a lot at school. People were like – ‘Tamara, she’s so shy, she’s so boring, I don’t want to talk to her.’ But – ha! – now look where I am. I see people’s comments on Instagram, talking about how well I’m doing. When I think about stuff like that I just think: ‘Thank you, God.’”
Hang on – Tamara? “My real name. When I was starting there was another model called Tamara, from Russia I think. I chose the name Malaika myself. It allows me to have a persona when I’m at work. But when I get home everyone calls me Tamara, or Tammy, and I’m like, ‘Yes, call me that more.’” She has a 23-year-old sister, Mary – “I’m sure she’s jealous,” she jokes – and a brother, Christian, 11. “He so funny – he loves what I’m doing. He has these pictures of me and shows all his friends at school.”
She relaxes by drawing – she has a sketchbook with her – and thinks about acting one day: “To model you have to have more than a look; you have to be able to give a photographer a personality, an idea, which is kind of like acting,” she says. She lives with her boyfriend, Nate, also a model. He met her as Malaika, but he has learnt to call her Tamara.
In 2015, of course, modelling is not just modelling. Social media allows these women to sell a lifestyle, an idealised existence of parties and celebrities that goes far beyond a billboard ad. You need as much personality as pout. Malaika has 110,000 followers on Instagram and 7,000 on Twitter. She posts inspirational quotes about how to live, as well as the more usual fashion shots, and puts up videos and pictures on Snapchat, too.
“I like Snapchat because a lot of girls out there are fond of this industry; it’s nice for them to get an insight. I don’t mind because I remember sitting down on YouTube and watching Joan Smalls and Jourdan and thinking: ‘I want to do that.’ But I’d like to get paid for it. Whenever you do a shoot they say: ‘Can you Instagram this handbag?’ or whatever – we should get a pound per post.” She laughs at the idea, inconceivable in an industry where Instagram is no less a requirement than electricity or coconut water.
Malaika Firth
Blouse by Louis Vuitton. Photograph: Michael Schwartz
Still, perhaps she has a point. With online presence, after all, comes the spectre of online abuse. There are no doubt plenty of keyboard lurkers out there who feel that being beautiful, famous and online is an invitation to whatever mud they fancy slinging. But Malaika is sanguine about the trolls. “I haven’t had much of it yet. It may start coming now because I’m getting out there and being seen more. But if it happens I just tell my boyfriend and he’s like, ‘Leave it.’ I think: ‘At least I’m working on something and have a life. You’re just sitting at a computer. Where are you, and where am I?’”
Make-up by Hung Vanngo for CK One Color Cosmetics at The Wall Group, assisted by Yuko. Hair by Danielle Priano at Tim Howard Management using R+Co. Photographer’s assistant Sloan Laurits. Fashion editor Jo Jones. Fashion assistant Hannah Davidson

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Fashion archive: Manchester's next top model?


Thirty years ago theTop London model instructor Diane Eddington training girls in 1960 first school for models was started in this country. Currently, that school, the Lucie Clayton agency, is celebrating the anniversary by awarding scholarships at its London, Manchester, and Liverpool studios to promising young girls. For nearly a thousand young ladies this looked like the doorway to a future more glamorous than that of a ballerina, much more possible than that of a film star. The dozen or so who were chosen from the three centres are launched on a career which could lead to a fame more dazzling than the Lily of Laguna’s - for her face was only seen on postcards, and theirs may be seen daily by millions in magazines, on hoardings, on television.
All the seventeen girls (chosen from 265 hopefuls) who were looked over, questioned, and measured by a large panel of judges at the Manchester studio this week declared their fervent ambition to be models. “And what will you do if you do not become a model?” a tall, serenely fair “teenager was asked. “I think I shall try for a university,” she said.
None flinched at the professional analysis of their points. “Drop your hands, dear,” one was told. “I just want to see if your shoulders are level.” A stately brunette had to admit her hip measurement was 40in. “Mm,” was the verdict. “Probably more than you ought to be, but good from our point of view.”
The judges, even the mysteriously lovely red-head, Margaret Brown, one of the London models now most in demand, agreed that the Manchester girls were a more promising collection of beauties than they had seen in London.
Why? Perhaps because they had more individuality; perhaps because they were more natural and unaffected. Perhaps simply because in London there are more opportunities readily available for the glamour-seekers than in Manchester.
What do the judges look for? That is almost impossible to say, apart from the obvious points of physical beauty. Probably a touch of distinction, distinction in its sense of “differentness,” for of one of the chosen four, a shy girl with a small, pale face and a great swathe of fair hair loosely wound round her head, it was said: “She doesn’t know a thing about herself, but when she does...”

Thursday, February 5, 2015

From Rosamund Pike’s new ‘do and Sophia Grace to Cara’s ‘brows and Justin Bieber: what’s hot and what’s not on Planet Fashion this week

Measure: Rosamund Pike
Going up
Chin down, eyes up Observed as the Tom Ford-approved way to look fabulous in photos. Adopt at once.
Suzy Menkes’ phone case It bears a cartoon image of Ms Menkes herself. Meta.
Bobbi Brown Art Stick This lipstick meets liner is the best lip product right now – and it’s so easy to use.
Sophia Grace Rapper of the year at 11 years old. And the only person still allowed to wear a peplum.
Nike Air Force 1s Ditch the Air Max and get a white pair of these instead.
Rosamund Pike’s undercut Easily the tonsorial highlight of awards season so far.
Going down
Cara’s eyebrows Spindly are back. See Gemma Ward in Prada’s SS15 campaign. Work with wetlook hair.
Justin Bieber Said to be perving on Lara Stone throughout their shoot for Calvin Klein jeans. One word: ew.
Caffeine We’re turning to beetroot juice for a scientifically proven natural energy boost. Bonus: a purple tongue.
Blankets as coats Much better as scarves. Who knew?
Supermodels Serial modeller Leonardo DiCaprio is dating Rihanna, according to the tabloids. An excellent idea, even if it’s not true.
High-waisted denim shorts Cara Delevingne and Lorde have both been spotted wearing a pair of these while hiking in the LA hills recently. In other words: the A-list have relegated them to gym kit. Take note.

Saturday, January 10, 2015

Crush of the week: Jourdan Dunn

Jourdan Dunn
 Jourdan Dunn: ‘The supermodel’s beauty is classic in its rendering, and refreshing in its uniqueness.’ Photograph: Mary McCartney for the Guardian
Jourdan Dunn is beautiful. That is a purely objective, immutable statement, similar to saying the sun is a source of heat, or that sugar makes humans happy. The supermodel’s beauty is classic in its rendering, and refreshing in its uniqueness. It is British, which makes it witty and knowing, and it is black, which makes it quite lonely in an industry as exclusionary as fashion.
Exquisite outer shell aside, Dunn seems a lovely, funny sort. She was scouted when she was 15 (“Everybody says I was spotted shopping in Primark,” she later said, clarifying with, one imagines, a genteel sniff: “I wasn’t shopping. I was with my friend”), and only a few years later, became the first black British model to enter Forbes’ rich list. There’s modelling, and then there’s modelling.
She hasn’t held her tongue about her industry’s diversity problems, either (a major clue is in the fashion term “nude”: a lot of us aren’t even close to that in our birthday suits). In 2007 she asked: “London’s not a white city, so why should our catwalks be so white?” More recently, she revealed the casual racism of a makeup artist who refused to work on her because of her skin colour.
Alongside these unhappy bumps have been accolades and barrier-breaking campaigns, from Burberry to Victoria’s Secret. She even found time to present a YouTube cooking show. Its title? Well Dunn With Jourdan Dunn. How could you not like her?
Dunn just got British Vogue’s February 2015 cover, an honour not bestowed on a solo black model since Naomi Campbell in 2002. It’s not right, but it’s OK. And there’ll be more – Dunn’s the real deal.